Aletto Brothers Invisibly Set Ruby Diamond Platinum Flower Convertible Brooch

In the Art Deco period, they prized colored gemstones such as rubies, sapphires, and emeralds for their boldness and glamour, playing the undiluted deep colors of diamonds and platinum settings for dramatic effect and stark contrasts. Custom geometric cuts were paramount, like calibré-cut rubies – typically small rectangles, squares, oblongs, or other specialty shapes cut to fit very closely together in a jewelry design. The gemstones are tightly set against one another to create a more industrial feel and a strong impact. The Art Deco period saw a major technical innovation in creating the “invisible setting,” which allowed gemstones to be closely set together without prongs.

In a contemporary homage to the styles, forms, and techniques of the Art Deco period, the Aletto Brothers show their mastery of the “invisible setting” with this stunning Ruby, Diamond, and Platinum Flower Convertible Brooch. The world-renowned Aletto Brothers have been known masters of “invisibly set” gemstones for five generations, passing this skilled technique from father to son since 1889, over 100 years in Italy, and the last 30 years in America. The technique is so complex that it can require up to eight hours for the lapidary to achieve the perfect cut. The expertise needed to create a piece with this setting is such that only a privileged few master jewelers hold the secret.

Alfred Langlois was one such master jeweler who is credited with developing the “invisible setting.” He produced pieces for many of the significant Parisian jewelry Maisons until Van Cleef and Arpels signed his atelier exclusively in 1932 and patented the technique in 1933. The Aletto Brothers are arguably one of the premier workshops in America to have mastered this technique and are still an active family-owned business.

The lush petals of the brooch are calibré-cut rubies that undulate and drape like velvet. The term calibré-cut comes from the word calibration, which means to divide or mark with gradations. One can see the harmonious mathematical structure underlying the fluidity. The way the Aletto Brothers transform a material hard as stones to resemble a soft drapery is a gleaming example of their skillful craftsmanship and artistry.

The geometric cut and deep red of the rubies are played off the en tremblant circular-cut of the 19-diamond cluster “pistil” in the center, which is carried further in a detachable circular-cut diamond stem and lyrical marquise-cut diamond leaves, mounted in platinum. 18K yellow gold is used for the lattice of the “invisible setting,” warming up the rubies secretly, as it is only visible from the back. 18K gold is also used for the double pin stem and the mechanism to detach the diamond stem, making this pin convertible. The lattice is further bolstered with platinum tubing and punctuated with 5 bezel-set small diamonds – an exquisite private detail that is truly a love note to the wearer. The pin is signed Aletto Bros. for Aletto Brothers, no. 72298, and includes the original box.
The geometric cut and deep red of the rubies are played off the en tremblant circular-cut of the 19-diamond cluster “pistil” in the center, which is carried further in a detachable circular-cut diamond stem and lyrical marquise-cut diamond leaves, mounted in platinum. 18K yellow gold is used for the lattice of the “invisible setting,” warming up the rubies secretly, as it is only visible from the back. 18K gold is also used for the double pin stem and the mechanism to detach the diamond stem, making this pin convertible. The lattice is further bolstered with platinum tubing and punctuated with 5 bezel-set small diamonds – an exquisite private detail that is truly a love note to the wearer. The pin is signed Aletto Bros. for Aletto Brothers, no. 72298, and includes the original box.

SKU :P1027
Category :PINS
Metal :PLAT

Aletto Bros

Platinum

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