Vintage French Diamond Sapphire Ruby Flower Pinstem Brooches Pair

The Art Deco period prized colored gemstones like rubies and sapphires for their richness and glamour, playing the undiluted deep colors off diamonds and platinum settings for dramatic contrast. This pair of Art Deco Revival Diamond Sapphire Ruby Flower Brooches, made in France in the 20th century, circa 1970-1980, pays homage around a half century later to the sleek look with the use of innovative gemstone cutting and setting developed in the era. The four flowers feature a lush and uninterrupted brocade of “invisibly set” sapphires and rubies which drape like velvet, combined with pavé-set diamonds and calibré-cut baguette diamonds.
The “invisible setting” was a major technical innovation of the Art Deco period where custom-cut gemstones appeared to be floating inside the design. The prongs or bezels were eliminated leaving just the sparkling stones uninterrupted by metal. The magic of this setting starts with the lapidary, or the process of engraving, cutting, and polishing stones. It is one of the most complex methods of setting stones, in which straight-edged cuts such as square, emerald or baguette are specifically and precisely cut with grooved girdles, so they fit snugly beside one another in a thin, supportive wire framework. The metal used to secure or set the gem is hidden beneath it. Within the mosaic-like structure of stones there is a final keystone that snaps it all together securely.

Custom geometric cuts were paramount during the Art Deco period. Calibré-cut gemstones were worked into special shapes to fit into a specific area, tightly set against one another to create a more industrial feel and a strong impact. The term, calibré-cut comes from the word calibration which means to divide or mark with gradations. Often calibré cuts fill a tapered row, encircle a stone, or create a flash of color as a design element to a piece. Calibré-cut stones can form a continual flow of gems due to the incredible channel settings in which they sit, like the flow of baguette diamonds in the intertwining stems.

Both jewels depict two elegant flowers intertwined, with delicate drooping stems emerging from two linear glossy leaves, but the charm of the pair is that they are not entirely identical. The single pinstem sapphire flower brooch is crafted entirely in platinum and features 34 baguette diamonds weighing approximately 5.8 carats total and 92 round diamonds weighing approximately 5.6 carats total. The two flowers with characteristics matching bluebells have pointed petals set off by trios of windblown diamond leaves at the top. In the language of flowers, the bluebell is a symbol of humility, constancy, gratitude, and everlasting love. It is said that if you turn a bluebell flower inside-out without tearing it, you will win the one you love.

The double pinstem ruby flower brooch is crafted in both 18K yellow gold and platinum and features round and baguette diamonds weighing approximately 4.95 carats total. The ruby brooch is Signed France, with French workshop and export marks. These two flowers have characteristics matching red Alstroemeria flowers, also known as Peruvian lilies, albeit stylized, with deeper notches in the petals revealing the 18K yellow gold setting beneath. A pair of intertwined flowers symbolizes the strong bond between two people and red alstroemeria symbolizes passion. Lilies have long been associated with love, devotion, purity, and fertility.

The reverse side of these two brooches reveals the mathematical structure of the “invisible setting” underlying the fluidity of all the blooms. The way these makers have transformed materials hard as metal and stones to resemble a soft drapery is a gleaming example of their skillful craftmanship and artistry. The similar pair worn together as a couple makes a lovely tribute love.

Sapphire brooch measures approx. 2.7” in length and features: 4 baguette diamonds weighing approximately 5.8 carats; 92 round diamonds weighing approximately 5.6 carats; Overall weight approx. 36.72 grams, made in platinum. Circa 1970-1980. Ruby Brooch measures approx. 2.7” in length and features round and baguette diamonds weighing a total of 4.95 carats. Overall weight approx. 30.94 grams, made in platinum and 18k yellow gold. Made in France, with French workshop and export marks. Circa 1970-1980.

SKU :S1013
Category :SET
Metal :PLAT

Platinum

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