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Bulgari Serpenti Vintage Diamond Crema Enamel Bracelet Watch

Bulgari Serpenti Vintage Diamond Crema Enamel Bracelet Watch

Regular price $195,750.00
Regular price Sale price $195,750.00
Sale Please call for price 212-354-3456.
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The Bulgari Serpenti is a legendary icon for the Italian fine jewelry Maison, first introduced nearly eighty years ago and produced in numerous spectacular renditions to this day. This ultra-stylized Bulgari Serpenti Vintage Diamond Creme Enamel Bracelet Watch is made in Italy circa 1970s, and is evolved from the early 1960s iconic example that caused quite a stir. When Elizabeth Taylor was filming Cleopatra (1963) in Rome, she wore one of the first gem-set Serpenti bracelet watches. The publicity photo became part of the barrage of press surrounding Taylor’s affair with her leading man, Richard Burton, and the design exploded with popularity.

In the years following the film, the Serpenti pieces continued to develop to include bracelets with even larger colorful scales. This magnificent version is sultry and sensual as any in the oeuvre, crafted in 18K yellow gold and featuring nested articulated segments set with crema enamel, each segment accented with round brilliant-cut diamonds pavé-set in gold hexagons. The beauty of this Serpenti is amplified by the hexagons which are placed at different parts along the scales, sometimes completely six-sided, and sometimes partial, magnified, and foreshortened. The last four segments, including the elongated tail, display only off-white enamel, whereas the face is utterly sparkling with diamonds. The creature’s head is turned toward us, challenging us to make the first move as it fixes us with its gaze, its eyes bezel-set with two pear-shape faceted red rubies outlined in gold.

We feel the sensual allure and the potential danger almost exude from this lifelike creature as it coils around our wrist three times. The pinnacle of drama of this sculpture-meets-adornment is the serpent’s mouth, which by way of the 18K yellow gold forked tongue, opens to reveal a watch inside. The quick extension of the head in a single second delivers a gorgeous bite that reveals a Vacheron Constantin movement, which adds to the overall rarity of this bracelet watch.

The original Bulgari Serpenti was created in the 1940s by Sotirio Bulgari, originally from Greece, who founded the house in Rome in 1884. The Serpenti was portrayed as the seductive serpent from Greek mythology and made in the Tubogas style, or flexible tubular chain comprised of a series of gold-threaded grooves entirely articulated by hinges concealing micro-springs. The sculptural design climbed the wrist like a sinewy snake and quickly achieved iconic status. The Tubogas, or flexible tubular chain, was originally a corrugated tube made of articulated bands used to transport pressurized gas patented in 1881, but in the 1940s, it was discovered by jewelers who gave it a glittering and sensational future. This fine example of the Bulgari Serpenti Bracelet Watch is an extension of that articulated coiled design, and is a significant part of Bulgari jewelry history.

Measures approx. 21.25” (54 cm) in length. Overall weight approx. 174 grams, made in 18k yellow gold. Vacheron Constantin movement. Signed Bvlgari and with serial number and Italian hallmarks; circa 1970s.

SKU :W1023
Category :WATCH
Metal :18KYG




18K Yellow Gold

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