Art Deco Vintage Diamond Black Jade Brooch

Art Deco jewelry is immediately recognizable and captivating for its geometric patterns and bold contrasts. Art Deco, short for the French Arts Décoratifs, is a style of visual arts, architecture, and product design that first appeared in France in the 1910s (just before World War I) and flourished in the United States and Europe during the 1920s and 1930s. This Vintage Art Deco Diamond Black Jade Brooch, made in France in the 20th century, circa 1935, uses gems in contrasting colors and is an excellent example of the later part of the period. The double pin stem brooch, which measures 5.25 inches long (13.5 cm), is crafted in platinum and features 60 faceted rose-cut black jade half-moons comprising four flower petals juxtaposed against plentiful and bold white diamonds with an estimated weight of 20.56 carats total. The face of the flower measures 1.75 x 2 inches (4.44 x 5.08 cm).

The largest diamond at the center of the flower is the focal point of the piece—a square cushion cut set at an angle with an estimated weight of 4.71 carats. Radiating outward and set minimally with prongs against the black jade are 6 striking old mine-cut round diamonds weighing approximately 5 carats total. The petals are outlined with ribbons of round diamonds, which twist and undulate lyrically, conveying the nuances of this delicate but strong flower. The petal edges, long curving stems, and leaves are defined by 224 round and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 8 carats in total. The secondary focal point is a domed rose-cut diamond with an estimated weight of 2.85 carats. It sparkles on the lower right of the brooch under a bluebell-style triangular hat and punctuated by three smaller rounds underneath. The great weight of the diamond appears to bend the leaf that supports it into a beautiful arc, twisted once like each petal edge.

The charm of this historical jewel is not only in the artistry but in the gemstones and particular cuts employed to convey the design. Mixed in with rounds are single-cut diamonds—a simplified form of a round brilliant. Single cuts were used in jewelry mainly through the 19th and the first half of the 20th centuries and featured an 8/8 facet arrangement with 8 facets along the crown and 8 facets on the pavilion or bottom of a diamond, and 1 table facet, for a total of 17 altogether. In the jewelry trade, single cuts are commonly referred to as “huit huit” from the French for the number eight. Single-cut diamonds were an affordable way to make a piece look more beautiful and sparkling. They also create a delicate look overall.

The rose-cut diamond dated back to the early 15th century and was first popular in the 1700s. Rose-cut diamonds are individually unique, more luminous than sparkly, and allow the light to move through and across the stone, giving a more transparent glow and subtle shine. With a flat base and a faceted domed profile, round rose cut diamonds usually have 24 facets, like the bluebell at the lower right. The flat base allows them to be cut into many different shapes, including half-moon in the black jade petals.

Measures approx. 5.25: in length (13.5cm); flower dimensions approx. 1.75” by 2”. Total diamond weight approx. 20.56 carats. Overall weight approx. 58.31 grams, made in platinum. Circa 1935.

SKU :P1017
Category :PINS
Metal :PLAT

Platinum

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