Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Bracelet

This signed Betteridge Vintage Diamond Articulated Bracelet exemplifies the height of the Art Deco period, made in 1930 in the United States. Twenty-four articulated links compose eight distinct plaques in a spectacular bracelet measuring 1 inch wide (2.54 cm) and 7.2 inches long (18.29 cm). Each plaque features various bold geometric configurations of marquise and old-cut diamonds on a densely embellished ground of pavé diamonds, with an estimated 50-carat total weight of diamonds. The bracelet is crafted in platinum set with nine old European-cut center diamonds weighing approximately 11.00 carats,16 marquise diamonds weighing approximately 14.00 carats, and smaller round pavé diamonds weighing approximately 25.00 carats.

Betteridge, a fine jeweler still producing today, was founded in New York City in 1897 and has been making custom jewelry in American workshops, using local artisans and craftsmen for over 100 years. Articulated bracelets such as this stunning example reflected the opulence of Art Deco design engineered for the time and were immensely popular in the 1920s. The central motif features three old-cut diamonds, collet-set and embellished with milgrain, or small grains of metal used to deliver an additional sparkle that complements the gemstones. Also known as a bezel setting, a collet setting is designed as a ring or rim of metal, rising perpendicular to the surface and designed to encircle the girdle of a gemstone. The upper edge of the collet is pressed over onto the crown of the stone, securing the gem in place. The ground comprises six vertical stripes paved with diamonds, where pavé diamonds get their name and are bordered with curved waves or fan patterns outlined in platinum with more milgrain.

The central motif is repeated four times, alternating with the secondary motif, also repeated four times, of four marquise diamonds, collet-set and embellished with milgrain, on a ground comprised of nine horizontal stripes paved with diamonds. The interplay of vertical bars, oval and circle square crosses, straight lines, and curved waves is like a Bach Prelude and Fugue with two movements in the same key, yet with so much beautiful variation. The Betteridge bracelet is a sublime study in contrast with overarching harmonies that tie the piece together. There is beauty in the math, the pleasing geometry, and the minimalist palette that is maximized expertly.

SKU :B1034
Category :BRACELETS
Metal :PLAT

Other

Platinum

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