Antique Victorian Diamond Pave Bow Brooch

A gemstone setter can show their skill by depicting the nuances and delicate folds in a draped material like ribbon or lace, more so when complexly knotted. This Antique Diamond Bow Brooch dates to the 1880s, which is concurrent with the Victorian Era in England (1837-1901), specifically the Aesthetic Period (1885-1901)—the Aesthetic Period marked a transition from the weighty opulence of the previous Grand Period (1861-1885) following Prince Albert's death to more delicate jewelry designs. The open-airiness of this brooch is consistent with the jewelry of the time, which reflected a new lifestyle for women who became an integral part of the workforce and enjoyed newfound freedoms in leisure activities. As such, women's jewelry became lighter and smaller. Delicate rings, bracelets, and brooches replaced the heavy opulence of previous years.

This elegant brooch depicts a lace ribbon tied in a feminine, volumetric double bow. Compositionally balanced yet with dynamic movement, there is a knot in the middle with four loops and two trailing tails, one pointing up and the other, notched, pointing down. The arrangement is based on rotational symmetry like a playing card, rotated 180 degrees about the center, but the two halves here are not one hundred percent identical. And it is in the nuanced differences that the piece comes alive. The double pinstem brooch measures 2.3 x 3 inches (58.42 x 76.2 mm) and is crafted in 18K gold set with bright and lively old mine, old European, and rose-cut diamonds weighing an estimated 50.00 carats total of E-F color and VS clarity. Collet-set or bezel-set, diamonds dot the edges like thread loops at the borders of a lace ribbon. It is a beautifully observed detail that shows the fine artisanship of the jeweler.

On the right side of the brooch, one bow loop overlaps another, but on the left, the loops wind up side by side on the same plane, with part of the ribbon folded to expose the underside as it goes into the knot. Anyone who has attempted to tie a perfect bow with such a supple and weightless material knows how difficult it is to accomplish. The fold is a sweet detail that speaks to shared human experience, making the piece quite real and relatable. The reverse side of the brooch reveals the beautifully wrought varied lattice openwork structure underlying the fluidity. Behind each stone is minimal metal and maximum light to make the various sizes of old mine and old European-cut diamonds sparkle. By contrast, the rose-cut diamonds in the collet-set border are surrounded and backed in warm yellow gold, creating a different glow.

Like old mine cuts, antique diamonds feature a squarish shape with soft, curved edges, similar to modern cushion-cut diamonds. Old mine cuts were popular during the 18th and 19th centuries. Old mine cut diamonds have a smaller table, high crown, and more significant facets than the contemporary brilliant cut diamond. Their bulkier proportions were explicitly cut to make the diamonds sparkle under candlelight. Because they were cut by eye and hand, each diamond carries a unique charm and often has uneven facets and an asymmetrical shape. An old European cut diamond is a round diamond cut between 1890-1930. They were ubiquitous during the Art Deco period. These antique diamonds were one of the predecessors to the modern round brilliant cut diamond, which is now the most popular diamond shape. Like old mine cuts, old European-cut diamonds were cut for carat weight and sparkle with candlelight in mind. Rose-cut diamonds are most unusual, with a flat base instead of a pointed pavilion. A faceted dome is in place of a flat table on the top. This vintage diamond cut can have 3 to 24 facets, each bringing a slight variation to the shape. The antique rose cut dates back to the 16th century and was popular until the early 20th century. As electric light became widespread, consumer tastes moved towards diamond cuts exhibiting the most sparkle. The diamonds bring their unique sparkle from nearly a century and a half ago, making this antique brooch a graceful interaction with history and a rare glimpse into the past.

Measures approx. 2.3" by 3" (58.42 x 76.2 mm). Diamond weight approx. 50.00 carats total; E-F color, VS clarity. Overall weight approx. 45.63 grams; made in 18K yellow gold. Circa 1880.

SKU :P1014
Category :PINS
Metal :18KYG

18K Yellow Gold

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