Antique Art Deco Diamond Ruby Line Tennis Bracelet

It is not often that one can wear a diamond line bracelet from the Art Deco period. However, to own an original piece of Art Deco jewelry is to hold a treasure from one of the most prominent design eras in history. This Antique Diamond Ruby Line Tennis Bracelet was made in the 20th century, circa 1920, when the dazzling piece was first introduced. Opulence was the leading fashion of the day during the Roaring 20s, and the diamond line bracelet was a go-to style, often worn in multiples up the wrist. This fabulous, streamlined piece is crafted in platinum, set with round diamonds with an estimated total weight of 14 carats, and bordered on top and bottom with calibré-cut synthetic red rubies, subtle yet powerful, like two pinstripes.

The beauty of the diamond line bracelet is its stark simplicity, comprised of articulated links embellished with single diamonds, all matching in size. The style was later renamed the eternity bracelet because the diamonds flowed uninterrupted around the entirety of the wrist. The tennis bracelet of today, again renamed in 1978, owes its minimalist and sparkling design to this Jazz Age archetype. In this 100-year-old example, the diamonds are held with clusters of flower-like prongs at each corner of the square setting. Indeed the sparkle of each diamond fills the platinum settings, making the round diamonds look square from a distance. The stone settings are additionally embellished with milgrain, a technique used in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, where small metal grains complement the gemstones and extend the sparkle. The popularity of milgrain peaked during the Art Deco era of the 1930s. Still, the style first took shape thousands of years ago in Asia when artisans would painstakingly adorn the tiny metal beads to the piece of jewelry by hand.

In the early 20th century, platinum was the metal of choice, providing strength and malleability. It was perfect for intricate detailing and was the optimal neutral background for setting white diamonds and colored stones alike. The rubies are calibré-cut and set three in a row to fit within each setting. The term calibré comes from the word calibration, which means to divide or mark with gradations. Calibré-cut gemstones were worked into unique shapes like these narrow channels on top and bottom, tightly set against one another to create a more industrial feel and a strong impact. Unfortunately, it was expensive to bring rubies from Burma, making the stones too expensive for the average consumer. In response, laboratory crystals created synthetic rocks in the Victorian era. These remained popular right through the Art Deco era.

Measures approx. 7" in length. Thirty-two round diamonds weigh approx. 8.00 carats total. Overall weight approx. 47.87 grams, made in platinum; circa 1920.

SKU :B1010
Category :BRACELETS
Metal :PLAT

No

Platinum

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