Van Cleef & Arpels Pery et Fils Vintage Manchette Diamond Pearl Cuff

Manchette in French means an ornamental trimming around the lower part of a sleeve, in other words, a cuff. Throughout their history, beginning in 1906 when the Maison was established, when Van Cleef & Arpels debuted a new manchette design, the fashion cognoscenti clamored to acquire it, and often for both wrists. The notable socialite, Daisy Fellowes, granddaughter of Isaac Singer who invented the sewing machine, ordered the Art Deco style diamond and emerald transformable manchette in 1926 and again in 1928, opting for a matching pair. Jackie Kennedy favored her iconic pair of Etruscan Revival hammered and embossed gold manchettes made in 1977 and was photographed wearing them at various events, including in conversation with boxer Muhammad Ali.

This exquisite Van Cleef & Arpels Manchette Vintage Diamond Pearl Cuff, made in France in the later 20th century, 1980, is Signed VCA with a partial maker's mark for Pery (A.) et Fils, and stamped 750 for 18 carat gold. The 2” H x 2” D by 5.5”L (50.8 x 50.8 x 139.7 mm) cuff bracelet is crafted in 18K yellow gold features a shooting star motif with a curved trail that cradles a single pearl. This motif is repeated a spectacular 50 times across five glorious, stacked rows. The rare bracelet is spangled with 500 diamonds weighing a total of approximately 12 carats of G-H color and VS clarity and 50 cultured pearls. The diamonds are bright, lively, and well matched. The pearls are high in luster of slightly cream body color with rosé overtones.

The six-diamond sparkling stars and four-diamond gently curved trails alternate in a regularized staggered pattern with the pearls, creating a dazzling openwork lattice that is magical. A similar shooting star motif can be seen in a pair of Van Cleef and Arpels gold and diamond pins sold at auction at Christie’s for $9,375 on February 13, 2019, and at Doyle New York on December 16, 2021, where large format twin stars include two trails but not pearls. A single strand necklace, matching to this piece and dated to the 1980s is offered at Macklowe Gallery New York and includes 21 of the same small format stars, curved trails, and cultured pearls described as “an exuberant depiction stars shooting over the moon.”

This Van Cleef & Arpels shooting star motif has similar styling with diamonds on a gold ground to the Cosmos™ collection, one of the Maison’s more recognizable signatures, dating back to the 1950s. The shooting star motif pays homage to luck, one of the Maison’s cherished sources of inspiration. “To be lucky, you must believe in luck,” as Jacques Arpels liked to say. Jacques was the nephew of Estelle Arpels, one of the two founders of Van Cleef & Arpels. As per the lore of the Maison, Jacques Arpels gathered four-leaf clovers in his backyard garden in Germigny-l’Évêque, presenting them to his staff, accompanied with the American poem Don’t Quit by John Greenleaf Whittier as encouragement to never give up hope. Indeed, the world becomes a more magical place when one feels lucky.

Measures approx. 2” in height by 5.5” in length, clasp secure, safety hook. 500 diamonds weighing a total of approximately 12.00 carats, estimated G-H color, VS clarity; 50 cultured pearls pearls are high in luster of slightly cream body color with rosé overtones. Overall weight approx. 174 grams, made in 18k yellow gold. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, with partial maker's mark for Pery (A.) et Fils, stamped with serial number, 750 mark, and French assay. Circa 1980.

SKU :B1021
Category :BRACELETS
Metal :18KYG

Van Cleef & Arpels

18K Yellow Gold

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