Cartier Vintage Mid-Century Burmese Ruby Bib Necklace

This magnificent, Signed Cartier Vintage Mid-Century Burmese Ruby Bib Necklace, made in France in 1955, is crafted in platinum and 18K yellow gold and features 9 pendants and 19 oval and cushion rubies weighing an estimated 20-22 carats total. The rubies are accompanied by report no. 1109961 dated 22 September 2020 from American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) stating that the natural corundum red rubies are of a Burmese origin with no indications of heat. Non-heated rubies such as these are rare and most prized, as the majority of these precious gemstones on the market are commonly heated to modify their color and appearance.

Five different cuts of diamonds with an estimated weight of 26-28.5 carats total of G-H colors and VVS-VS clarity comprise this Art Deco-inflected 15.75-inch (40 cm) bib necklace beautifully and gracefully. Ninety-three circular-cut diamonds weighing an estimated 15-17 carats comprise the “chain.” One-hundred forty-three smaller circular-cut diamonds weighing an estimated 3-4 carats accent the “chain” and comprise the halos of each of the nine featured larger cushion rubies set with 18K yellow gold prongs. Nineteen marquise diamonds weighing an estimated 37-40 carats further accent the nine halos and adorn the invisible clasp. Finally, 20 baguette diamonds weighing an estimated 0.70-0.90 carats form Art Deco-style chevrons beneath each of the 10 smaller oval rubies set with 18K gold prongs, and alternate with 11 emerald-cut diamonds weighing an estimated 2-2.30 carats which suspend each halo, creating a dynamic zig zagging which truly dazzles.

Burmese rubies are arguably the gold standard by which every ruby is measured. They are the most rare and valuable, prized for their extremely saturated particular color, caused by a high chromium content in the ground from which they are extracted. To exalt the rich color of a ruby, a skilled jeweler will select diamonds with intense whiteness. Juxtaposed against a diamond halo, the brilliant color saturation of the ruby is intensified.

Coveted for centuries, rubies can command the highest per-carat price of any colored stone, second only to colored diamonds. The ruby has long been representative of romantic love. It is said to inspire devotion and faithfulness within a romantic relationship. In fact, French jewelers in the 1800s referred to the ruby as the "dearly loved stone." The fiery red color and sparkle can inspire sensuality in the wearer. A jeweled bib necklace from the Cartier archives such as this splendid High Jewelry 1955 example is unparalleled. The Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, famously wore her jeweled bib necklace made by Cartier in 1947 to a gala at Versailles 1953.

Measures approx. 15.75 ins (40 cm) in length. Rubies and diamonds set in platinum and 18K gold. Accompanied by AGL certificate #1109961. Cartier with serial numbers; circa 1955.

SKU :N1220
Category :NECKLACES
Metal :PLAT

Cartier

Platinum

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