Cartier Vintage Diamond Abstract Floral Pinstem Brooch

This rare Cartier Vintage Diamond Brooch does not adhere to the clean-lined principles of classic Art Deco jewelry design. It is also unusual that it does not incorporate colorful stones alongside the diamonds arranged in an immaculate grid, nor focus on sleek geometry or sharp angles. Made in France in the 1930s this superb diamond brooch is Signed Cartier, numbered, and hallmarked. It is a treasured find that features Cartier world-renowned elegance and high quality, particularly in their innovative stone-setting. Crafted in platinum, the brooch is set with old cut diamonds weighing an estimated 8.00 carats.

The single pinstem brooch depicts a completely symmetrical, somewhat abstracted floral composition, comprised of what appears to be multiple cuts of diamonds, with morphing pear-shape flower petals both fanning out on either side while also becoming part of a central frame comprised of seemingly marquise-shape diamonds. The frame encircles two flowers that also seem in the process of undergoing a gradual transformation. The floral center is depicted by two oval diamonds that appear to be pulling apart or pressing together to merge into one, surrounded by round petals, with the petals above and below just a bit larger. This unusual focal point is reminiscent of the fold in the paper for an inkblot or Rorschach test that was coincidentally created shortly before this brooch, in 1921.

Things are certainly not what they seem at first glance, and this is especially true with respect to diamond shapes. The six petals which fan out to either side are not pear shapes, and the frame is not composed of marquise shape diamonds. In fact, all are round diamonds of various sizes arranged in trompe l’oeil settings. Examining the reverse side of the brooch makes things more clear. The pear and marquise shapes are both divided in three by thin walls of platinum, giving separate space for three rounds. The settings are open at the back allowing light to be transmitted through the stones to add brilliance and amplify the sparkle. The prongs and highly polished platinum settings likewise reflect the diamond sparkle, giving an effect similar to milgrain wrought large. There are so many optical illusions in the composition and construction of this brooch, it is indeed a treasure from the Cartier archives.

Antique-cut diamond weight approx. 8.00 carats total. Overall weight approx. 20.98 grams, made in platinum. Signed Cartier with serial number; circa 1930s.

SKU :P1008
Category :PINS
Metal :PLAT

Cartier

Platinum

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