Cartier Panthère Diamond Onyx Emerald Cocktail Ring

What is the mystique of the Panthère de Cartier, and why has it become such an iconic collection for the Maison for over 100 years? The panther was a symbol of a type of femininity new to the world in 1914 when the Panthère de Cartier was created. Some might argue it was representative of mysterious and strong women like Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), an ingénue known as “La Panthère” who became a designer for the Maison in 1913. Some cite Italian socialite Marchesa Luisa Casati (1881-1957) as the more likely muse with her emerald green eyes and wild type of femininity, parading cheetahs on diamond-studded leashes.

The Panthère first appeared at the Maison not as a piece of jewelry, interestingly enough, but as a painting. That painting was Dame à la Panthère by Georges Barbier (1882-1932), one of the great French illustrators of the early 20th century. It depicted an elegantly dressed woman with a panther at her feet, and was commissioned by Louis Cartier (1875-1942), grandson of Louis-François Cartier (1819-1904), the founder of the Maison in 1847. The painting was originally to be used for an invitation to a Parisian jewelry exhibition; but Louis liked it so much, he used it more widely to become synonymous with the ethos of the Maison.

This spectacular cocktail ring, made in the 1980s-1990s, employs similar details and workmanship to the very first Panthère de Cartier: the Montre Panthère, or panther wristwatch. The signature mottled motif of the Panthère was achieved by speckling black onyx among pavé-set diamonds to represent the pattern of a panther’s coat. This wild cocktail ring, made three quarters of a century later, harkens back to the original with a dazzling juxtaposition of opposites: dark vs. light, smooth vs. textured, surface vs. depth, created with an array of onyx cabochons and 72 brilliant-cut pavé diamonds. Two emeralds are used for the eyes, as if to summon the wild spirit of the Marchesa Luisa Casati herself.

Created by Cartier, Paris. The piece is vintage, circa 1980s-1990s. The metal and gemstones are 18K yellow gold, onyx, set with 2 emeralds and 72 brilliant-cut diamonds. The ring is size 7 (EU 53) and the gross weight is 17.65 g. The piece is signed Cartier. Designer/Provenance is Cartier Paris. Condition is Excellent ? with the original red Cartier box included. Serial number provided upon request.

SKU :R1456
Category :RINGS
Metal :18KYG

Cartier

18K Yellow Gold

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