Bulgari Vintage Emerald Ruby Diamond Crescent Earrings

Founded in 1884 in Rome, Bulgari is known for voluminous forms, signature sunny shades of yellow gold, and vibrantly colored gemstones composed in curvaceous patterns. This mirror image pair of Bulgari Vintage Emerald Ruby Diamond Crescent Earrings, made in Italy in the 20th century, circa 1980s, are excellent examples of the Bulgari signature style which crystalized in this decade. The juicy rounded bombé-style hoops are crafted in 18K yellow gold, featuring pavé-set round brilliant-cut white diamonds and calibré rubies flanking two bezel-set heart-shape Colombian emeralds, weighing approximately 1.81 and 2.04 carats.

The bombé style (French, meaning ‘bomb-shaped’ and named for the French dessert, bombe glacée or ice cream bomb) offers a pleasingly rounded, attention-grabbing shape with more surface area for embellishment. The cleanly delineated sections of green, red, and white gemstones call to mind spumoni, a molded gelato composed of pistachio, cherry, and vanilla almond, arranged side by side. Both the dessert and the earrings unmistakably recall the colors of the Italian flag. Each jeweled section seems to swell with a feminine voluptuousness that is a once strong, graphic, and highly stylized.

Favoring unusual cuts, Bulgari uses “invisibly set” calibré rubies in these earrings, popular in jewelry from the Art Deco period. Typically, rubies and other colored gemstones were custom cut into rectangles, squares, oblongs, or other specialty shapes to specifically to fit very closely together in a jewelry design. Here, these precious green gemstones are tightly set against one another to create a velvety smoothness, in contrast to the sparkling diamonds and textured gold. In fact, this combination has its roots in one of Bulgari’s most successful and long-lasting designs which first appeared in the early 1930s, the Trombino, or little trumpet. The shank of the 1930s Trombino ring was a broad band of pavé-set diamonds graduated to a horizontal line of “invisibly set” baguette-cut diamonds quite like the rubies in this design. A dip into the archives fifty years later is often rejuvenating.

SKU :E1365
Category :EARRINGS
Metal :18KYG

BUL

18K Yellow Gold

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