Bulgari Serpenti Vintage Coral Ruby Convertible Bracelet Watch

This rare Bulgari Coral Serpenti Bracelet Watch made in the 1970s is a significant and archival-quality piece of Bulgari jewelry history. As one of one hundred fifty jewels exhibited in 2014 during Bulgari: 130 Years of Masterpieces and organized by the Houston Museum of Natural Science, this piece was originally loaned from Bulgari’s archives only to be acquired by us as a proud addition to the Spectra Fine Jewelry vault. This museum-quality jewel feature carries a Jaeger LeCoultre movement, which adds to its rarity, along with its inclusion of coveted angel skin coral on its exterior. In addition, a compilation of digital exhibition materials accompanies this piece.

The Bulgari Serpenti is a legendary icon, first introduced nearly eighty years ago and produced in numerous spectacular renditions. The original Bulgari Serpenti was created in the 1940s by Sotirio Georgis Bulgari (originally Sotirios Voulgaris from Greece), who founded the Roman house in 1884. The Serpenti was portrayed as the seductive serpent from Greek mythology and made in the Tubogas style, or flexible tubular chain, which climbed the wrist like a snake. Elizabeth Taylor wore one of the first gem-set secret Serpenti watches similar to this stunning example in her film Cleopatra (1963), which made the design explode with popularity. The celebrity recognition, sinewy design, and fluid articulating movement quickly garnered a cult following.

Following the film, the Serpenti pieces evolved to include bracelets with larger colorful scales. Here, the bracelet is flexible, made of nesting and articulated rings of natural coral, sensitively hand-carved into honeycomb hexagons and outlined in 18K yellow gold. Not only is the serpent’s overlapping scale pattern sumptuously portrayed–the tactile angel skin coral, or pelle d'angelo in Italian, seems to breathe and press against the gold that restricts it. The pose is powerfully alluring as it sensually coils around the wrist three times.

The serpent fixes us with its gaze, its eyes bezel-set with two pear-shaped faceted rubies outlined in gold. Its head, which continues the repeating coral and gold pattern, is poised to dart forth. We feel the tension, the excitement, the potential danger of this natural moment captured in a freeze of gems. The pinnacle of drama of this sculpture-meets-adornment is the serpent’s mouth, which opens by way of the 18K yellow gold forked tongue to reveal a watch inside. The movement of the hidden timepiece is revealed in a single second and catches us off-guard, much like the bite of a serpent. This moment of artistic expression in both vision and motion leaves us breathless.

Collectors should take note that coral has become an endangered species material since this piece was made, thus enhancing the rarity and value of coral Serpenti extant. Please note: this property cannot be shipped internationally due to endangered species materials. We cannot grant our usual return policy for this incredible jewel due to its fragile nature.

Measures approx. 0.6 inches wide (1.5 cm), and fits a size 5-8" wrist. Signed "Bulgari" with serial number. Made in Italy; circa 1970s.

SKU :W1021
Category :WATCH
Metal :18KYG

BUL

18K Yellow Gold

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