Bulgari Contemporary Deco-Revival Amethyst Enamel Brooch

This Bulgari Contemporary Deco-Revival Amethyst Enamel Brooch, made in the 21st century, circa 2000s, features a myriad of materials presented in a composition based on parallel lines and symmetry. The geometric 2.6 inch-wide (6.604 cm) single pinstem brooch is crafted in 18K gold, inset with three bold parallelogram-shaped bands: two of colored enamel in black and coral, and one in gold set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The colors, volumes, and shapes are uncharacteristic of the Roman jewelry house for this time period, save for the juicy amethyst cabochon, bezel-set and centered with two concentric bands of gold.
The border of the brooch is accented with a single row of diamonds, made up of alternating stretches of rounds held in 18K yellow gold prongs, and baguettes set calibré style. For jewelry in the Art Deco period, the calibré cut was paramount. Typically, rubies and other colored gemstones like emeralds were custom cut into rectangles, squares, oblongs, or other specialty shapes to specifically to fit very closely together in a jewelry design. Here, baguette diamonds are tightly set against one another to reference the Machine Age.
The first Egyptian Revival jewelry coincided with the Art Deco period in the 1920s, spurred by the discovery of ancient Egyptian tombs, notably the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922. The second came in the late 1960s, lasting to present day. The subdued colors and enamel used in this piece are present in other Egyptian revival pieces by Bulgari that date to the early 1970s. We can see similar colors used in actual ancient Egyptian usekh or wesekh, personal ornaments in the shape of a broad collars worn by deities and elite men and women. This piece most likely references the popular revival “scarab brooch” flanked by outstretched wings, here abstractly represented by the amethyst cabochon and outstretched diagonals.

SKU :P1108
Category :PINS
Metal :18KYG

BUL

18K Yellow Gold

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