Antique French Art Deco Era Articulated Buckle Link Bracelet

Christie's puts forth an interesting concept in their October 2022 Collecting Guide—that Art Deco jewelers "cast aside the naturalistic forms of Art Nouveau in favor of the clean lines of modernity." They write, "Art Deco was the visual embodiment of modernist principles. Celebrating the triumph of technology and the sleek, liberating forms of the Machine Age, its emphasis on structure responded to a widespread desire for order in the wake of chaos." Let's examine this exquisite Art Deco Diamond Articulated Bracelet, made in France in the 1930s, in light of the ideas in the Christie's Guide. We can see that visual harmony and organization are at work in the geometric composition. Art Deco eschewed large gemstones in favor of small, brilliant-cut diamonds. This linear, streamlined composition features numerous round and single-cut diamonds with an estimated weight of 13.85 carats set in gleaming platinum. The bracelet is stamped France, with French assay marks.

Articulated bracelets of the Art Deco period were engineered for the time and immensely popular in the 1920s and 1930s. The 6.5-inch long (18.42 cm) by 0.5-inch wide (1.27 cm) bracelet carries a symmetrical design composed of 3 identical oblong plaques embellished with an allover scalloped design joined by openwork square buckles on either side. The plaques are each composed of 7 articulated links centering on single round bezel-set diamonds. The six links flank the focal point and are embellished with diamonds within rows of scalloped accents. Each sparkling scallop is outlined in platinum with space in between like delicate lace. The artistry and attention to detail are breathtaking. The scallops flow like gentle waves away from the center stones in mirror-image symmetry.

The angular simplicity of the buckles is a striking and effective stark counterpoint to the scallop design. The clasp is seamlessly incorporated into one set of openwork square buckles not to break the pattern flow overall. On the wrist, the bracelet is as opulent and modern as the day it was made. There are no excess embellishments. Every formal detail is in perfect balance. The vintage diamonds, including rounds and single cuts, transport us physically to a sparkling moment in time nearly 100 years ago. Single-cut diamonds were used in jewelry mainly through the 19th and first half of the 20th centuries. They featured an 8/8 facet arrangement with eight facets along the crown, eight facets on the pavilion or bottom of a diamond, and 1 table facet, totaling 17. In the jewelry trade, single cuts are called "huit huit" from the French for the number eight. Single-cut diamonds were an affordable way to make a piece look more beautiful and sparkling. They also create a delicate look overall.

Measures approx. 6.5" in length. Diamond weight approx. 13.85 carats total. Overall weight approx. 32.13 grams, made in platinum. Made in France; circa 1930s.

SKU :B1030
Category :BRACELETS
Metal :PLAT

No

Platinum

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